There is a depth and history to Scotland’s food that reaches far beyond deep-fried Mars bars or urban myths about haggis. Kitchens were humble and full of life – recipes passed by word of mouth, scraps of paper shared between friends, generations stitching together simple meals. I’m lucky enough that my mum taught me how a potato, a handful of oatmeal and a bit of salt and butter could make a meal and hold a story, but life changes – new ingredients arrive, we move away, time grows shorter – and, sometimes, those simple, comforting recipes drift out of reach. Today’s dishes began as a keepsake for my children – to save old recipes, to record a feeling of home – but also as an invitation to discover what happens when memory meets invention.

Cullen skink bake (pictured top)

The starting point for these smoked fish pies is basically a cullen skink soup, which I thicken to make the filling. Traditional cullen skink relies on Scottish smoked haddock for its flavour. There is just nothing else like it, though Shetland smoked cod also works really well here. Finish these wee pies with a grating of sharp cheddar. Delicious.

Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 20 min, plus cooling time
Makes 4 pies

15g unsalted butter, plus 1 knob extra for frying
Olive oil, for frying
100g onions, peeled and finely chopped
Salt and black pepper, to taste
250g potatoes (use a good all-rounder such as maris piper or king edward), peeled and cut into 1cm cubes
200ml whole milk
250g good (ie, undyed) smoked haddock, or smoked cod, cut into bite-sized pieces
15g plain flour
1 tbsp chopped chives
1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp dijon mustard
1 standard 320g sheet ready-rolled all-butter shortcrust pastry, or puff pastry (27cm × 35cm)
Grated cheddar, to finish
1 egg yolk mixed with a little milk

Melt the knob of butter and a drizzle of oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat. Add the onions and a pinch of salt, and saute on a low to medium heat for about five minutes, to soften. Add the cubed potatoes, keep the heat low, cover and sweat for 10 or so minutes, until the potatoes start to soften but are still a little hard. Stir in the milk, lay the fish on top of the potatoes, then cover again and simmer for 10 minutes more, until you can easily press the point of a knife into the potato: you want them to retain their shape, rather than be mushy. Using a slotted spoon, carefully lift the fish, potatoes and onion out of the hot milk, then pour the liquid into a jug.

Melt the 15g butter in the same pan, then stir in the flour and cook on a low heat for a couple of minutes. Pour in the reserved poaching liquid, stir for about five minutes, until the mixture thickens, then take off the heat and carefully fold in the fish, potatoes and onions. Add the herbs, mustard and black pepper to taste, then leave to cool.

Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas7. Lay out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface and cut it into four strips. Pile the filling on one half of each strip, leaving enough of a border to seal around the edges later. Top the filling with a little grated cheddar, then brush some of the beaten egg yolk mixture all around the edges. Fold the empty half of each pastry strip up and over the filling, press all around the edges to seal, then crimp with the back of a fork.

With a sharp knife, cut a small steam vent in the top of each pie, then transfer them to a lined baking sheet and brush with the remaining egg yolk mixture. Bake the pastries for 30 minutes, until puffed and golden. I like to serve these with a sharply dressed green salad for a crunchy, vinegary contrast. You will probably have a little filling left over, which is perfect for an omelette or toasted sandwich the next day.

Vegetarian haggis

Ali Stoner’s vegetarian haggis.

I often make a veggie haggis, mainly for pals who are scared by the real deal, and this one really does replicate the original in flavour, texture and looks. It also makes a brilliant filling for “sausage” rolls. After making so many Scottish dishes over the years, I noticed I was using the same herbs and spices on repeat, so I created a blend that represents the essence of Celtic flavours. It is so adaptable that, if you’re anything like me, you will find yourself using it in so many things, from marinades to roast potatoes and everything in between.

Prep 25 min
Soak 15 min
Cook 1 hr 10 min
Serves 6

For the Scottish seven-spice blend (makes 1 small jar)
25g black peppercorns
15g coriander seeds
1 tbsp juniper berries
1 tbsp allspice berries
1 tbsp dried thyme
1 tbsp dried rosemary
1 tbsp ground nutmeg

For the haggis
15g dried mushrooms (porcini or shiitake), diced
2 tbsp olive oil
25g butter
1 brown onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
4 portobello mushrooms, diced
2 tsp Scottish seven-spice (see above and method)
1 tsp white pepper
½ teaspoon ground mace
2 sprigs fresh sage, leaves picked and finely chopped
1 sprig fresh rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped
2 carrots, very finely diced (I use a food processor)
75g black beluga lentils
1 tbsp yeast extract (Marmite or Vegemite, say)
500ml vegetable stock
400g can white beans, drained and chopped
Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
Salt
50g steel-cut or pinhead oats
Onion jam, to serve, ideally spiked with a little whisky and warmed (optional)

First, make the Scottish seven-spice blend. Toast the peppercorns, coriander seeds, juniper and allspice berries in a dry pan until fragrant, then blitz to a powder in a spice grinder (alternatively, use a pestle and mortar). Add the thyme and rosemary, blend again, then add the ground nutmeg and blend again. Decant into a jar and use freely and creatively whenever you want to add a bit of Celtic flavour.

Now for the haggis. Cover the dried mushrooms in about 100ml boiling water and leave to soak for 15 minutes.

Put the oil and butter in a saucepan on a low to medium heat, then add the onion and garlic, and saute gently until they start to soften. Add the fresh mushrooms, followed by the drained rehydrated dried mushrooms (save their soaking liquor) and, after a couple of minutes, when they have softened, add all the spices, herbs, carrots, lentils, yeast extract, reserved mushroom liquor and 400ml of the stock. Simmer, stirring frequently, for about 30 minutes, until the lentils are almost soft.

Stir the beans and lemon zest into the mix and add a half teaspoon of salt. Test the lentils for “doneness”: they should still have a little bite and most of the liquid should have been absorbed, so if they need more cooking, add the rest of the stock. Add the oats, cook for five to 10 minutes, until they absorb the remaining liquid, then taste and add more salt, if required.

Serve with champit tatties (buttery mash studded with sliced spring onions), mashed neeps (swede) and some warm, whisky-spiked onion jam.

Chippy batter potato fritters

Ali Stoner’s chippy batter potato fritters.

This simple batter gives the most amazing crunch to fish, fritters and even sausages: no fancy ingredients required. The vinegar reacts with the baking powder to produce a light, airy batter, while the cornflour helps with that all-important crunch. You could serve these with tartare sauce, but the pickled onion mayo, inspired by that big jar on the chip-shop counter, works a treat.

Prep 15 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4–6

For the fritters
2 large unpeeled baking potatoes, cut into 5mm-thick slices (I use a mandoline)
Plain flour, for dusting
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
Salt

For the chippy batter
75g plain flour
60g cornflour
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
2 tsp malt vinegar

For the pickled onion mayo (optional)
70g pickled onions, roughly chopped, plus 1–2 tbsp of the onion pickling vinegar
20g small capers, finely chopped
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
1 tbsp finely chopped chives
2 tbsp mayonnaise
1 pinch salt

Rinse and drain the potato slices, then put them in a pan of salted cold water – if possible, use a wide saute pan, so the slices aren’t piled on top of each other. Bring to a boil, simmer for five minutes, then lift out with a fish slice or large slotted spoon, transfer to a rack and leave to steam dry. Chill uncovered while you make the batter and pickled onion mayo.

For the batter, sift the flours, baking powder and salt into a bowl, then gradually whisk in 150ml cold water until incorporated. Add the vinegar and whisk again to combine.

For the pickled onion mayo, simply mix all the ingredients in a bowl.

Take the potato slices out of the fridge. Put a bowl filled with flour next to your frying station and season it with salt. Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep, heavy-based pan or a deep-fat fryer to 180C (350F) (or until a drizzle of batter sizzles and browns immediately). Working in small batches, dip the potato slices first in the seasoned flour, then in the batter, and deep-fry, turning as needed, for up to five minutes in total, until golden and crisp. When they are cooked, the oil will almost stop bubbling and be nearly still – that’s when you know they’re ready. Lift out with a slotted spoon (remove any bits that fall off into the oil, too) and drain on kitchen paper. Season immediately with salt, then keep warm while you fry the rest of the fritters.

Get the fritters into buttered rolls, if you like, or serve them just as they are with some pickled onion mayo, and enjoy the crunch.

• These recipes are edited extracts from Scran: Modern Scottish Food Inspired by Tradition by Ali Stoner, published by Mitchell Beazley at £27. To order a copy for £24.30, go to guardianbookshop.com

• The Guardian aims to publish recipes for sustainable seafood. Check ratings in your region: UK; Australia; US.