• Riding in Sicily. It may sound obvious, but the way in which everything overflows with Italian passion, meaning, and messiness down here really does make it unforgettable.
• The Peloritani mountain track. Straight out of Messina, you’ll climb up to a long and tough unpaved section on which, slowly but surely, Etna will emerge in the distance. The descent into Francavilla di Sicilia is one of my all-time favorites!
• The volcanic gravel of Etna. Riding the slopes of Europe’s most active volcano is both mesmerizing and exhilarating, as well as entirely terrifying. Be careful; these rocks are sharp.
• Etna’s fertile natural landscape. The amount of plant life one can witness on Etna’s trails is incredible. Such a great variety of colors, smells, and shapes. Botanists, this is your spot.
• Bronte’s pistacchio paradise. Everything here is pistachio themed, from the arancini to the ice cream and the pizzas. The town has a vibrant, loud street culture and is built in a beautifully claustrophobic way.
• Towns of the Sicilian interior. Every one of them has something special to it. Whether it’s the main square, a church, an adorned fountain, viewpoints, ancient street tiles, war memorials, the list goes on. Take your time in them to absorb the details!
• The Madonie natural park. It’s a hell of a climb, but the tranquility of these dense, deer-packed forests quickly redeems the effort. It’s the last time you’ll be above 1,500 meters (4,900 feet) on the route, so enjoy the freshness!
• An ice cream marathon. The lands between Caccamo, Cimmina, and Villafrati are hot, so better take advantage of the marked bars.
• Piana degli Albanesi. When the Arbëreshë people migrated away from the Balkans to escape the Ottoman Empire’s invasion, some settled in Sicily. Today, this village is heavily Albanian, with the language, flag and murals all representing this heritage.
• A secret hot spring. Just after Alcamo, you can take a little detour to find a natural hot spring that draws in people from as far as Trapani. It’s shallow but rather hot!
• Gorgeous coastal views from up high, as you flank Monte Sparagio’s east side. This track and subsequent road have little-to-no other traffic than the occasional shepherd.
• The climb to Erice. It’s partly asphalted and requires you to climb around a pesky fence near the end, but the views make up for the challenges endured.
• The descent to Trapani. A fabulous view over this coastal town and finish of the Sicilia Traversata. I recommend you wait for sunset!
• Trapani’s vibrant old centre and beach front. I loved staying in this city for a few days, as it’s affordable and full of quaint details. I’ve marked a few POIs in case you’d like to do the same.

When to go

• Go as soon as it’s not yet hot, or with the heat long gone. Sicily becomes a frying pan between June and September, and experiences a surge in tourism. Therefore, I’d recommend May and October as ideal months to ride. Keep in mind that parts of Etna will still be covered in snow in May.

Logistics

• Starting in Messina, the easiest way to arrive is either by train from Palermo (in Sicily, bicycles travel on regional trains for free) or by ferry from the mainland. The Villa San Giovanni train station is directly connected to the ferry terminal, and you can travel across the straight fro just €2.50.
• Starting in Trapani, you can either arrive by ferry (from, say, Sardinia) or by train from Palermo. Be aware that the regional train between Palermo and Trapani makes a big detour around the mountains and takes its time getting there.
• Since Sicily is Italian, you’ll need the required documents for your nationality to visit Italy.
• If you have the time, I recommend popping into the Iliad shop in Messina to get a temporary local SIM card with data for a few euros.

Dangers & Annoyances

• Sicily is very hilly, and most roads, paths and tracks won’t hesitate to make that clear. Even if you take two weeks for this route, you’ll still climb an average of 1,000 meters a day. Hike-a-bike happens frequently, but never for too long.
• To state the obvious, riding around an active volcano should always be done with caution. Eruptions happen, and you should plan an exit route.
• Sicily is mostly warm and sunny, but storms can happen, especially around Mount Etna, as its height attracts all sorts of inclement weather.
• You’ll likely encounter the non-venomous green whip snake (Il Biacco in Italian) on roads and paths, and they can sometimes cross seemingly out of nowhere.
• Many people told me that dogs would be a nuisance, but I had zero issues. A friendly, patient attitude is paramount with these doggies.

What Bike and gear

• As with most of my routes, I’d always suggest a hardtail with tubeless, wide tires (at least 2” wide). It cushions the unpaved sections, and a flat bar makes any technical section easier to navigate. With even most asphalt in Sicily being of questionable condition, the unpaved parts can get rowdy and overgrown, so having a bike that makes those fun is a major plus.
• Bring strong, heavy tires to minimize tire cuts from volcanic gravel. Sufficient medical supplies could come in handy in case you fall on these sharp rocks. Lastly, bring a decent sleeping bag for cold nights and mornings on Etna and the Madonie Mountains.

• Wild camping isn’t allowed, but considering how the route is often at height and either in nature or around open farmland, you could try some of the spots I’ve marked. Please do so responsibly and only between sunset and sunrise.
• If you’re planning to camp around Etna, I would suggest you find one of the few rifugios along the way and do so there, as you’ll have a walled-off spot and picnic tables, as well as water, sometimes.
• Notable stays along the route include the marked spots in Messina, Bronte, Erice, and Trapani.

• Food in Sicily is a whole cultural thing, and always within reach. Make sure to try arancini, panelle, caponata, various fish dishes, ice cream and granita, sweet raviola, cannoli, Sicilian wine, and specialties like pistachio coffee in Bronte or couscous in Trapani.
• If you like freshly fried snacks, keep an eye out for a rosticceria in the towns you pass through. These shops specialize in them!
• In Sicily, when you order a coffee, it is customary to serve a glass of cold, filtered water alongside it for free. You can also ask for sparkling water (acqua frizzante).
• I’ve marked all working fountains I found throughout the route as POIs. If you find you can’t quite rely on these fountains for some reason, you can always ask for filtered water fill-ups at the cafes and bars along the way. Most owners are very friendly and willing to help!

Trail Notes

• This route can be ridden in two directions, either starting in Messina or Trapani. My preference is to ride west, away from Etna, and to put most long climbs at the start of the journey. But if you’re coming from Corsica or Sardinia and want to continue your ride of these Mediterranean islands in a flow, starting from Trapani is entirely fine. I’ve reversed the route, with a few small adaptations for the eastward direction, and you can download it here. You can still rely on the POIs.
• To be well prepared for your journey, I would suggest staying in Messina for a night to get things in order, buy necessary supplies, eat and sleep well, and be rested for the start. Of course, you’re welcome to start climbing straight from the ferry terminal, in which case the first marked camp potential may come in handy.

Suggested Itinerary

locationMessina – Pizzo Acqua Bianca

Day 1 (47.6 km +1,976 m)

After a 17-kilometer climb, you’ll enter the unpaved track through the Peloritani mountains. This track has loads of short, steep climbs that often require hike-a-bike. I’ve marked these sections according to my own performance, so you may find yourself getting off your bike more or less often. Along the way, you’ll find several great spots to pitch your tent for the night.

locationPizzo Acqua Bianca – Rifugio Serra Buffa

Day 2 (59.8 km +1,696 m)

Continuing the Peloritani track, you’ll start seeing Mount Etna come closer with each climb and descent. Finally, a swooping gravel track with epic views will lead you down into the valley town of Francavilla di Sicilia, where you can find water and resupply. Note the river valley track may be different from what I’ve marked. Climbing to Castiglione di Sicilia starts a little rough but is quiet and mostly paved. From here on out, you’ll start riding volcanic gravel, all the way until Bronte. You may find a good tent pitch at Rifugio Serra Buffa or Casa Paternò Castello, both of which are marked POIs.

locationRifugio Serra Buffa – Bronte

Day 3 (60.8 km +1,713 m)

Flanking the lava fields of the Bove Valley, you’ll ride scenic tracks until some steep, sketchy singletrack leading you to Zafferana Etnea, where you can find resupply and water. Then starts a long, paved climb to the highest point of the route (1,896 meters), where you can take a cable car to the Montagnola viewpoint (2,500 meters). Next, you’ll be back on volcanic gravel all the way until you descend into Bronte. This track has some spectacular views, and you’ll have seen almost every side of Mount Etna along the way.

locationBronte – Capizzi

Day 4 (40.9 km +858 m)

After indulging in everything pistachio, a short, paved climb leads you out of Bronte to the valley of Fiume di Troina. A path along the river slowly climbs, with a few crossings through the shallow stream. Shortly before Capizzi, the climb concludes, and you’ll ride a paved descent into town. With a bit of creativity, you can find a tent pitch before town or accommodation in Capizzi.

locationCapizzi – Gorgo di Pollicino

Day 5 (45 km +1,308 m)

Starting the day well fed and restocked, the way from Capizzi to the Madonie Mountains is fairly straightforward, though hindered by several hike-a-bike sections and a few gates you’ll need to open and close. The unpaved track that starts at kilometer 223 is lovely, and mostly shaded. I chose to ride fairly difficult unpaved tracks just north of Gangi instead of heading through town, but the nearby paved roads do let you include it. After the marked fountain at kilometer 251, you’ll head into the Madonie Mountains and can find a pitch for your tent by Gorgo di Pollicino, a little pond surrounded by hills and expansive views to the south. Or you could continue to Petralia Sottona to find accommodation.

locationGorgo di Pollicino – Cozzo di Castellazzo

Day 6 (35 km +1,434 m)

After breakfast in Petralia Sottona, you’ll have one major climb ahead of you, paved until about halfway and absolutely beautiful. At nearly 1,800 meters, you’ll ride a track that is simply breathtaking and takes you through dense forest and grazed highlands, likely allowing you to spot wild deer and big birds, perhaps even some wild boar and their young. Curving around Monte dei Cervi, you’ll reach the end of the climb and the start of a long, satisfying descent. Ahead of this, you may want to find yourself a pitch to experience an incredibly quiet night under Sicilian skies.

locationCozzo di Castellazzo – Caccamo

Day 7 (54 km +1,205 m)

Descending into Scillato, you’ll find basic resupply, a nice little cafe, and cold water at the marked fountain, before moving on to the challenging, low-altitude, dusty, and dry section between Scillato and Montemaggiore Belsito. You’ll have to deal with the heat, a few river crossings, some hike-a-bike, and a few shepherd gates. Once out, the way to Caccamo is mostly paved and pretty quiet, though incredibly steep. This won’t be an easy day!

locationCaccamo – Monte Rosella

Day 8 (46.6 km +1,296 m)

After a good rest, you’ll ride hot and rough tracks between Caccamo, Ciminna, and Villafrati, all equally quaint towns with ice cream parlors, giving this part of the route an excellent reason to indulge. Just after Villafrati, you’ll find an unpaved track that elegantly and gradually climbs up to Bosco della Ficuzza, where you take a right and head north through the forest. Once out, a drier, more challenging track will take you up about 450 meters to Monte Rosella. Water is scarce along this section. On top, you could pitch for the night or head to Piana Degli Albanesi for accommodation.

locationMonte Rosella – Alcamo

Day 9 (56.8 km +1,056 m)

Piana Degli Albanesi will offer a full resupply, water, and plenty of fried treats at the marked bar. A short climb out of town follows, offering gorgeous valley views and your last minutes above 1,000 meters. Now, you’ll descend into the low-lying, never-ending hills to Alcamo, with mixed terrain. If you’re good at finding a pitch, you could do so around kilometer 347 or continue to Alcamo to find yourself a bed and a shower.

locationAlcamo – Erice

Day 10 (64.4 km +1,695 m)

Your last big day, one with variety and beauty. First off, you may find yourself detouring ever so slightly to take a dip in a secret hot spring, after which a fair bit of climbing awaits. The views get especially pretty from Castello di Baida onward, as this gravel track curves around Monte Sparagio, feeling surprisingly far out and forgotten. You’ll descend to the coast over a couple of backroads to find yourself trailing the sea and making one last climbing effort up to Erice, well compensated by the remarkable views. Once complete, you could stay the night in town, or descend into Trapani. If you’ve got clear skies, I highly recommend waiting until sunset before descending. You won’t regret it!

locationErice – Trapani

Day 11 (16.3 km +97 m)

Whether you’ve opted to enjoy a tranquil night in Erice, or an exhilarating sunset descent into Trapani, the finish at the Tower of Ligny will taste equally sweet and salty. The Sicilia Traversata is a wrap! All that is left now is to relish the beauty of Trapani’s old center. Or, will you ride down the Sicily Divide next?

Route alternatives or shortcuts:

• If short on time, you could call Piana Degli Albanesi your finish point and head out to Palermo following the main road northward. Until there, you can find train stations all along the northern coast, serving the regional line between Messina and Palermo.
• If you’re arriving from Sardinia and land in Palermo wanting to ride the route eastward, you can adopt a similar strategy by riding out to Piana Degli Albanesi and latching onto the route from there.

Additional Resources

• For anyone coming off the TranSardinia wanting to continue east, find the reversed Sicilia Traversata here.
• This Wikipedia page about Sicily provides tons of useful and fun information, including broad history and an explanation of the Sicilian flag.
• Feeling like exploring more of Sicily after finishing in Trapani? Consider following the Sicily Divide from Trapani in the west to Catania in the east: https://sicilydivide.it/en/.