It all started on a runway in Milan. When Italian fashion giant Prada unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, a pair of leather sandals stood out not for being cutting-edge, but for looking eerily familiar.

Their open-toe, braided design closely resembled the Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted Indian footwear with a history dating back centuries. Italian luxury brand Prada faces heat for showcasing Kolhapuri-style sandals at Milan Fashion Week without crediting their Indian origin. Local artisans and stakeholders in India are calling out the move as “cultural theft”, with a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) now filed in the Bombay High Court.

But while the design sparked recognition in India, the label didn’t. Described simply as “leather sandals”, Prada’s version came with a price tag of over Rs 1 lakh and no mention of the craft's Indian origin, triggering a wave of backlash.

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Artisans from Kolhapur: 'We felt forgotten'

From the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, where the chappals originate, came a powerful open letter addressed directly to Prada. Shared widely on social media, the letter read: “They aren’t just footwear. They are stories stitched into leather, generations of pride… When we saw them on your runway, we felt proud. But when we read the label – ‘leather sandals’ – we felt forgotten… Call them Kolhapuri. Acknowledge the origin. Celebrate the craft.”

The letter was shared by Shopkop founder Rahul Parasu Kamble, who led the call for proper recognition, posting: “Prada 0: Kolhapur 1.”

Prada eventually acknowledged the Indian roots of the design, calling it “inspired by Indian handcrafted footwear” and claimed the sandals were still in the design stage.

But for many, the acknowledgement came too late.

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PIL filed in Bombay HC

A public interest litigation (PIL) has been filed in the Bombay High Court against Italian luxury brand Prada, accusing it of copying the design of the GI-tagged Kolhapuri chappals in its Spring/Summer 2026 collection. 

The PIL, filed by Intellectual Property Rights advocate Ganesh S Hingmire on July 2, alleges that Prada’s recently launched ‘toe ring sandals’ bear a striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals, a cultural symbol of Maharashtra.

The plea claims that Prada’s act amounts to “misrepresentation, cultural misappropriation, and unauthorised commercialisation” of a protected Indian design, showcased at a Milan fashion event without acknowledgment of its GI status or traditional roots. While Prada has acknowledged the Indian influence behind its design, the PIL points out that no formal apology or compensation has been offered to the artisans or the GI Registry.

"The Kolhapuri Chappal is the cultural symbol of Maharashtra and having special public sentiments attached with it. The brand has privately accepted that its collection is "inspired by Indian artisans," however, this acknowledgement surfaced only after facing widespread backlash on various social media platforms. This acknowledgement was given to the private entity and not to the applicant, makers of Kolhapuri Chappal, GI Registry, Government or the public at large. The brand has not yet issued any formal apology along with any damages, compensation and entitled remedy and the statement appears to be merely a superficial attempt to deflect criticism," read the PIL, as reported by ANI.

'Rs 500 rupee chappal sold for Rs 1 lakh': Radhika Gupta

Edelweiss Mutual Fund CEO Radhika Gupta also took to X to criticise the move: “Rs 500 rupee chappal sold for Rs 1 lakh, without any credit!” She added, “Every child knows who Prada and Gucci are, but very few in a room know a Himroo, Sambalpuri or Narayanpet. Our textile heritage and craftsmanship is for us to preserve, brand and benefit from.”

The Kolhapuri chappal, a staple of ethnic Indian wear and originally made with vegetable-tanned leather by local cobbler communities, was granted GI status in 2019, tying the craft to eight districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka.