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Amber Waves of Grain

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Amber Waves of Grain showcases the quiet beauty of the plains, from endless miles of gravel to sleepy, quintessential western towns to shimmering wheat fields. The route's accessibility will make it easy for bikepackers of all abilities to fall in love with Kansas...

Amber Waves of Grain invites riders from all over to explore and experience the quiet beauty of the Kansas Plains firsthand. The route starts in Salina, a quaint city with a revitalized and charming downtown where bikepackers can admire the many murals, get a bite to eat, and buy last-minute supplies. Shortly after leaving town, riders will find themselves squarely in the breadbasket of the U.S. The route primarily strings together a series of sleepy gravel roads and dedicated bike paths, with camping options both nights at bodies of water. Along the route, towns of various sizes offer resupply options and opportunities to see the communities that dot the countryside. The three-day route also offers truly incredible sunrises, sunsets, and stars, given the constant expansive view of the sky. On the ground, it invites riders to get acquainted with the middle of the country.

Kansas is home to the majority of the tallgrass prairie left in the U.S., an ecosystem notable for its diversity of plant life and rich soil. Depending on the time of year, riders may see wild yucca, false indigo, silphium, sunflowers, and all manner of grasses, including the state grass, little bluestem. The preserved rangelands this route passes through are among the highest-quality and nutrient-rich in the country. Over millennia, the deep roots of native prairie grasses built a dark, nutrient-rich soil. This soil, of the order mollisol, is the most productive of the soil orders, and in the United States is found primarily in the Great Plains. The diversity of flora is matched by the region’s fauna. Riders should keep a lookout for armadillos, lizards, snakes, herds of cattle, and the original megafauna of the plains, bison. While the prairie ecosystem once dominated the landscape of Kansas, it is now only a portion of the landscape this route follows.

Thanks to those fertile soils formed under the prairie grasses, the Great Plains region now supplies the majority of the wheat for the U.S. The sheer scale of modern agriculture can be hard to conceptualize. Kansas alone boasts over 45,000 square miles of cropland—an area larger than 28 individual U.S. states. While riding this route, one can start to get a sense of what that looks like. Riders may see fields of wheat, soy, sunflower, corn, and sorghum that go on for miles and stretch to the horizon. Almost equally large in scale is the equipment used to plant and harvest such huge amounts of grain, from combines to tractors to tractor-trailers nearly overflowing with wheat berries. Alongside the vast fields of grain are herds of cattle, some of which are brought from out of state to graze the nutritious rangelands. The ruminants that dot the landscape, chewing their cud, will be near constant companions for riders of this route, making for great photo ops. These herds of cattle and acres of crop fields make up a critical part of the current food system in the U.S. Many outdoor explorations are fueled by packaged foods in landscapes that are removed from the source of those calories, so it can be humbling and thought-provoking to see firsthand where the food necessary to power those adventures comes from.

This route invites riders to see what the heartland of the U.S. has to offer. The flat gravel roads are forgiving, and both reroutes and resupplies as needed are straightforward. After full sunny days in the saddle, the evening lakes offer a cool swim and an excellent place to enjoy a meal. At the tail end of the trip, downtown Salina holds a much-deserved beverage and meal in a modestly sized downtown that’s just the right amount of cozy. In contrast to some of the more dramatic landscapes in the U.S., Amber Waves of Grain offers a more reserved, comforting beauty—perfect for a reflective, memorable bike trip.

Route Difficulty

Amber Waves of Grain is a very ridable, accessible route on forgiving terrain; the exposure to the elements and raw mileage make this route a 3/10 for difficulty. Flat gravel sections can be cruisy with a tailwind, or your grandparents’ uphill both ways walk to school in a steady headwind. The low amount of total elevation gain and 100 percent ridability make it possible to cover a lot of ground. Ample access to resupplies allows riders to partake in the comforts of front-country treats, sometimes multiple times a day.

With few trees or structures to block the sun, the strong Kansas rays can take their toll on a rider throughout the course of the day. Be sure to bring plenty of water and sunscreen to keep on cruising, as even in the flatlands, a 77-mile day can take its toll. On the whole, riders of all abilities can enjoy what this route has to offer.

Route Development: Amber Waves of Grain was originally developed as an overnighter from our back door. The loop then evolved organically over several trips through a map study and dreams of a weekend-long bike trip. Following several single-night trips to Kanopolis Lake, expansion of the route happened eastward, looking to Marion Reservoir as another good place to swim and sleep after a good day’s pedaling. The route sticks to quieter roads and bike trails when possible, made simple by Kansas’ grid system of gravel roads. Thanks to the Meadowlark Trail, the Sunflower Trail, where it exists, and Salina’s Levee Trail for providing dedicated bike paths.

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Highlights
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Must Know
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Camping
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Food/H2O
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Trail Notes
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Prairie plants – spring blooms include yucca, false indigo, and butterfly milkweed, while early fall roadsides are ablaze with sunflowers, goldenrod, and silphium.
Wildlife – Keep your eyes peeled for armadillos. Bird lovers will also be delighted by frequent sightings of hawks and falcons soaring over the plains.
Dakota Sandstone – particularly northeast of Kanopolis Reservoir, the hills are a breathtaking shade of orange.
The Land Institute – a non-profit research organization in Salina developing perennial grains and reimagining an agricultural system that mimics the prairie ecosystem. Round out the exploration of the breadbasket with a tour, free to the public on Friday mornings.
Mushroom Rock State Park – worth a detour to see these unusual concretions at Kansas’s smallest state park.
Prairieland Market – local and organic grocery store in downtown. A great place to stock up on snacks or snag a wholesome meal from the prepared foods section.
“Little Sweden USA” – swing through Lindsborg’s grocery store for some Swedish staples, stop to admire some art at the Sandzen museum and Red Barn studio (both free!), or grab a coffee from Blacksmith Coffeeshop & Roastery.
Sunsets – there really is something special about the Kansas sky.
Kanopolis and Marion Reservoirs – an evening dip is extra sweet after a hot day of biking.
The Meadowlark Trail – a rails to trails route connecting Lindsborg and McPherson.
Watering holes – the route passes the Sandstone Saloon in Brookville (classic western bar atmosphere or a great photo opportunity), the Smoky Valley Distillery in Marquette, and the Three Rings Brewery in McPherson.
Post-trip Salina celebration spots – grab a beer from Blue Skye Brewery, a burrito from Panchos (a beloved Salina staple known for their $5.99 burritos), or an ice cream from Dagney’s – or all three!
Downtown Salina – thanks to an annual mural festival, many buildings have been decorated by artists from around the world. Griffon’s Records and Red Fern Booksellers are also worth a stop.

When to go

Shoulder seasons are ideal as Kansas can be brutally hot in the summer, and the route is very exposed. Depending on the year, this can be as early as late March through early June, late August-November.

Logistics

Fly into Salina or the larger but farther Wichita, or take a road trip to the heartlands. Free parking in Salina makes leaving a car very straightforward.
We rode counterclockwise, but either would be fine depending on wind and your schedule – day 1 is shorter than days 2 and 3 in this direction.

What Bike and Gear

A gravel bike is sufficient for this route – one section of the Meadowlark Trail has some burly gravel, and there are some sandy dirt roads, but everything is rideable. 32mm tires minimum should be comfortable for most riders.

Dangers and Annoyances

At times this route travels on moderately busy roads. Kansas drivers are generally quite conservative, giving a good amount of distance when passing bikers, though cyclists should use caution and be sure to bring bike safety lights and bright colored clothing.
A bridge on one section of the Meadowlark Trail was under repair. We took the gravel roads around this section before reconnecting with the trail (section is marked on the route).
The wind can be formidable at times and can change directions suddenly, so come mentally prepared for the potential for uphill riding in multiple directions.
Kansas is known for intense thunderstorms and hail so keep an eye on the weather.
There is no bridge at Brush Creek; if it is running too high to cross safely (very unlikely by late summer to fall), double back to take Warren Wagon Road to Eastside Drive.

There are multiple campground options at Kanopolis State park. The Langley Point campground on the south shore has primitive sites that are walk-up only, but other sites can be reserved online.
Marion Reservoir also has multiple campgrounds (Cottonwood Point, French Creek Cove, and Hillsboro Cove) with many sites on the water.
Campgrounds at both reservoirs could potentially be crowded, but it should be possible to get a site even in peak season.
Most land in Kansas is private, so these campgrounds are the only camping option along the route.
There are ample lodging options in Lindsborg, McPherson, Hillsboro, and Salina.

The route passes through plenty of towns along the way, so there are ample opportunities for refilling water, but be prepared to carry up to 3-5 liters depending on the season.
Prairieland Grocery in downtown Salina has prepared foods with local ingredients. Salina also has multiple Dillons locations and an Aldi.
Piper’s Fine Foods grocery in Marquette is a great spot for a resupply, especially if you’re in the mood for an extra-large cinnamon roll or cookie.
McPherson has plenty of grocery and restaurant options, including Neighbors Cafe for a late breakfast.
There are limited resupply options on day 3, particularly if ridden on a Sunday when many places are closed in rural Kansas. If you happen to finish on a Friday or Saturday, though, hit Exit 14 Restaurant in Gypsum for a classic small-town breakfast.
Blue Skye Brewery, Meddy’s, and La Curva are all great options for a post-trip meal. The Cozy Inn is also a Salina staple and has been serving up sliders since 1922.
Dagney’s ice cream serves up homemade ice cream of unique flavors. The lavender honey is delish.
Don’t leave town without hitting the Panchos drive through – open 24 hours! A local favorite, they’re loved both for the price ($5.99 for a burrito) and for their tortillas. Get the chile relleno burrito.

Three-day Itinerary

location Salina to Langley Point

Day 1 (35 mi +1,110′)

The first day is roughly 35 miles when ridden counterclockwise, leaving time to fuel up before leaving town or grab any last-minute bike supplies at Biketek. The first 5 miles from downtown are on pavement along a moderately busy road before the route turns off onto dirt and gravel roads. You’ll coast through Brookville, home to the Sandstone Saloon. Pop in for a quick drink if you’re coming through Wed-Sunday evenings; otherwise, it’s a great photo opportunity if you hit it earlier in the day.

Then head south on dirt roads–be sure to admire the bright orange soil! This is the time to add a few bonus miles by continuing over to 28th road and then to Avenue K to see Mushroom Rock State Park if you’re interested. The day ends at Kanopolis Reservoir, where there are several campground options. We stayed at the Caving Banks section of Langley Point on the south end of the reservoir, where there are several primitive walk-up sites. To get to this site, the last miles are over the dam (this is a paved road that can have fast traffic), but it offers a beautiful view of the reservoir. Enjoy an evening swim and the sunset over the water.

location Langley Point to Marion Reservoir

Day 2 (77.6 mi +1,490′)

Get a few morning hills in the diet on the scenic Smoky Valley Road. The second day is roughly 77 miles, so Piper’s Fine Foods grocery in Marquette is a great spot to snag a jumbo cinnamon roll or cookie to fuel up. The next town on the route is Lindsborg, known as “Little Sweden USA”. Highlights include the Red Barn Studio and the Sandzen museum (both free!), Blacksmith Coffee Roasters, multiple ice cream options, and a Swedish section in the independent grocery store, White’s. From there, take the Meadowlark rail trail for 13 miles. A bridge on one section was under repair, so we hopped back on the gravel road for a mile before reconnecting with the trail. The Meadowlark trail ends in McPherson, which is a perfect opportunity to fill up on water and resupply if necessary.

Leaving McPherson, there is a mile on a paved road with faster traffic before the route hops onto a segment of the Sunflower Trail. The remainder of the day is spent on gravel and dirt roads, passing through quaint Kansas towns and along vast wheat fields. There’s the opportunity to take any parallel roads along this stretch, or to stop in Canton, Lehigh, or Hillsboro for a resupply. End the day at Marion Reservoir, which has Hillsboro Cove, French Cove, and Cottonwood Point campgrounds. We stayed at Cottonwood Point. Cool off with another evening dip and enjoy another Kansas sunset over the water.

location Marion Reservoir to Salina

Day 3 (63.2 mi +1,755′)

Make your way to Salina along the back roads. The third day is roughly 62 miles, allowing time to make a pitstop at Exit 14 restaurant in Gypsum or to savor the last hours of the journey. Given the grid layout of the roads in Kansas, it’s easy to modify the route if you see something interesting or want to shave off a few miles.

Terms of Use: As with each bikepacking route guide published on BIKEPACKING.com, should you choose to cycle this route, do so at your own risk. Prior to setting out check current local weather, conditions, and land/road closures. While riding, obey all public and private land use restrictions and rules, carry proper safety and navigational equipment, and of course, follow the #leavenotrace guidelines. The information found herein is simply a planning resource to be used as a point of inspiration in conjunction with your own due-diligence. In spite of the fact that this route, associated GPS track (GPX and maps), and all route guidelines were prepared under diligent research by the specified contributor and/or contributors, the accuracy of such and judgement of the author is not guaranteed. BIKEPACKING.com LLC, its partners, associates, and contributors are in no way liable for personal injury, damage to personal property, or any other such situation that might happen to individual riders cycling or following this route.